Difference between revisions of Guide:Reducing normalized
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In general, you only want to reduce '''0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription'''. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line on the [[Snellen chart]] from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting. | In general, you only want to reduce '''0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription'''. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line (half or better correct) on the [[Snellen chart]] from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting without [[active focus]]. You would do well to wait for the non dominant eye to be at this standard as well, (see [[ocular dominance]]). | ||
When introducing a [[normalized]] reduction you should perform a "[[zero diopter reset]]". | |||
It is a good idea to keep the full correction (your previous normz) handy for night driving; at least for the first stretch of time in your new reduction. | |||
== See also == | == See also == |
Revision as of 12:26, 26 March 2021
In general, you only want to reduce 0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line (half or better correct) on the Snellen chart from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting without active focus. You would do well to wait for the non dominant eye to be at this standard as well, (see ocular dominance).
When introducing a normalized reduction you should perform a "zero diopter reset".
It is a good idea to keep the full correction (your previous normz) handy for night driving; at least for the first stretch of time in your new reduction.