Difference between revisions of Guide:Reducing normalized
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In general, you only want to reduce '''0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription'''. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line (half or better correct) on the [[Snellen chart]] from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting without [[active focus]]. If your set up only allows for a 10 foot or 3 meter chart keep in mind that this isn't quite as accurate, you can account for this by increasing your standard to a fairly clear 100 percent of the 20/20 line. | In general, you only want to reduce '''0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription'''. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line (half or better correct) on the [[Snellen chart]] from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting without [[active focus]]. If your set up only allows for a 10 foot or 3 meter chart keep in mind that this isn't quite as accurate, you can account for this by increasing your standard to a fairly clear 100 percent of the 20/20 line. | ||
You would do well to wait for the non dominant eye to be at this standard as well, (see [[ocular dominance]]). Getting 20/20 once is not necessarily an indication you are ready to reduce, it could just be a good day. Reducing too early leads to unnecessary struggle with excessive blur and eye strain that might slow or even stop your progress. With that consideration, it is a good idea to make sure the 20/20 holds for at least a week if not 2 before reducing. | You would do well to wait for the non dominant eye to be at this standard as well, (see [[ocular dominance]]). Getting 20/20 once is not necessarily an indication you are ready to reduce, it could just be a good day. Reducing too early leads to unnecessary struggle with excessive blur and eye strain that might slow or even stop your progress. With that consideration, it is a good idea to make sure the 20/20 holds for at least a week if not 2 before reducing. | ||
If you're experiencing any [[double vision]], it's recommended to wait until it clears up before reducing. | |||
When introducing a [[normalized]] reduction you should perform a "[[zero diopter reset]]". | When introducing a [[normalized]] reduction you should perform a "[[zero diopter reset]]". | ||
It is a good idea to keep the full correction (your previous normz) handy for night driving; at least for the first stretch of time in your new reduction. | |||
== See also == | |||
* [[Guide:How to measure your eyesight | How to measure your eyesight]] | |||
* [[reduction | Reduction]] | |||
* [[Normalized]] | |||
* [[Guide:Reducing lens complexity | Reducing lens complexity]] | |||
* [[Guide:Reducing_differentials | Reducing differentials]] | |||
* [[Guide:Not_reducing_too_quickly | Take it slow]] | |||
== | ==Blog== | ||
[https://endmyopia.org/reducing-too-quickly-why-its-your-biggest-mistake/ Don't rush to reduce] | |||
[[Category:Guides]] | [[Category:Guides]] |
Latest revision as of 21:07, 13 December 2022
In general, you only want to reduce 0.25 diopters from a full, 20/20 prescription. The 20/20 standard indicates that you can consistently read the 20 foot or 6 meter line (half or better correct) on the Snellen chart from that distance in reasonably good indoor lighting without active focus. If your set up only allows for a 10 foot or 3 meter chart keep in mind that this isn't quite as accurate, you can account for this by increasing your standard to a fairly clear 100 percent of the 20/20 line.
You would do well to wait for the non dominant eye to be at this standard as well, (see ocular dominance). Getting 20/20 once is not necessarily an indication you are ready to reduce, it could just be a good day. Reducing too early leads to unnecessary struggle with excessive blur and eye strain that might slow or even stop your progress. With that consideration, it is a good idea to make sure the 20/20 holds for at least a week if not 2 before reducing.
If you're experiencing any double vision, it's recommended to wait until it clears up before reducing.
When introducing a normalized reduction you should perform a "zero diopter reset". It is a good idea to keep the full correction (your previous normz) handy for night driving; at least for the first stretch of time in your new reduction.